My friend and her son were tending to one of her many beehives, in between the blackberry bushes one day, during my visit to her house in England several years ago. I was looking from what I though was a good distance away, taking pictures while on hold with my cellular company, to resolve an issue with my phone. When all of a sudden I saw a bee, leave the comfort of his hive, to make a “beeline” toward me. I turned around to flee just as the man on the phone came back to hear me, not necessarily screaming, but maybe having certain words to say. The bee stung me on the back of my neck before I could clear the bushes. It had been years since I had been stung, but the memory of that feeling came flooding back. I apologized to the man on the phone for my words, explaining I had just been stung by a bee, and hung up, since he had resolved my issue. After a few minutes I started to hear a buzzing sound. Realizing it was coming from me, I tore off my shirt, thankfully having another under it, and there caught in the material, with his stinger still partially attached, was the BEE. Despite the stinging hot feeling on my neck, and the traumatized tissue beginning to swell, I felt a pang of sadness as I watched the bee die. I was the one who invaded his space. The bees are used to their hardworking and thoughtful caregiver. They they were not use to me trying to get a glimpse and a picture.
The wind, usually a product of August, had made its way to Athens a couple of months early, according to our kind host at the Airbnb. Despite being a warm wind, it felt good in the hot sun.
After dropping our bags into our room, a short distance away from Parliament Square, we made our way out into the heat to see the ruins. The Presidents band was marching in parade formation. A guard was seen dutifully minding his post and we fortunate enough to see the changing of the guard. We had a ticket to see the various ancient sites around the vast city, though all within walking distance. There are various companies out there offering a day pass. With a handy map, a guide is not needed, unless you want.
Nut vendors had a variety of nuts to sale in wagons on the streets. My favorite was the caramel and sesame covered ones. For a euro a bag I could buy several to nibble on as we made our way around the sites.
Acropolis is perched high upon the hill overlooking the vast city. The walk up is not as strenuous as it appears it would be. A pair of black heels were left at the top; obviously left by a visitor who clearly had not thought the climb to the top through. All of Athens and beyond could be seen. Acropolis seen during the night offers a different perspective than that of the day. One can imagine what it must have been like to have lived during the 5th century B.C., and have walked within the walls of these amazingly preserved buildings perched on Acropolis.
To be closer to the airport for a morning flight, we booked an apartment in Porto Rafti. Our host picked us up at the metro stop prior to the airport. He drove us past the brilliant blue water crashing waves on the white sand beaches, as the trees blew in the summer breeze. Later in the evening we walked down to a suggested restaurant where Greek was the only language on the menu and even the dogs look both ways to cross the busy road.
I fell in love with Corfu Greece, before ever sitting foot on the little island, in the Ionian Sea. It is situated along the coast of Albania and mainland Greece, with Italy to the west. The “Durrells in Corfu,” series on Masterpiece Theatre prompted this love. I later learned the James Bond movie, “For Your Eyes Only,” was also filmed there. Shows and movies, nearly always open your eyes up to known and unknown destinations. Once landing on Corfu, after a short flight from Rome, we made our way over to pick up the rental car. Usually Europcar allows you to use your own insurance, whether through your insurance company, if they allow it, or a credit card that offers that amenity. So we were at a lost when the representative asked for a 3000 euro deposit. After much discussion from my frustrated travel companion, they finally pointed out if we had used their insurance, we would not need to put down the large deposit. Why didn’t they point this out in the first place?! After all this, we set out to find our rental with Airbnb in a little red car.
After locating our host in the area he mentioned, he hopped in our car to show us where we could park for only 3 euro for twenty four hours. We then walked to our lovely apartment. Our host was kind and helpful. You can find the place on Airbnb.com under the name, Sweet Home in Corfu Old town. Our host Alexander left us a map of the island, with ideas of places to see. We made a plan to visit several beaches the next day. The island is easy to explore by car. There are mountain views, olive groves, and vineyards. Be sure to visit Alexander’s store called The Olive Store; easily reached on foot near the apartment.
The food in Greece is exceptionally good, and beyond reasonably priced. Sofrito, and Pastitsada are traditional dishes of Corfu. The kumquat is the fruit of the island. It is sold as a fruit, or in the form of a liquor.
The writer Lawrence Durrell, who called Corfu his home during the 1930’s, gives a colorful account of his time in Corfu, in his book “Prospero’s Cell.’ Gerald Durrell, his brother wrote of his time there in “My Family and Other Animals.” Both gave a basis for the “The Durrell’s in Corfu.” Part of the filming is in the replica of a town from the 1930’s, called Danilla. The site can be toured after contacting the Grecotel Hotel and Resort, as they are the owners of the mock village. We were lucky enough to have a tour of our own there. After arriving to find the place closed, a car pulled up. I asked the man driving about tours. He said they are only on certain days. I told him about the show being the reason I came to Corfu. He offered for us to come in and take a look. We walked through the set, and though I was the only one who had seen the show, and was thrilled to be having this experience, my travel campanions decided this was truly a treat. We sat at the tables, of pretend cafes. We saw the fire pump used in one of the episodes, when Larry and Leslie Durrell decided they wanted to be firefighters. As we left, I told our host he had made my trip special by allowing us to visit. https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/shows/the-durrells-in-corfu/
Corfu has been influenced by the English, the Venetians and the French, but still holds on to its Greek roots. https://www.greecetravel.com/corfu/history.html The Venetian Fortress is worth a visit at the edge of the sea in Corfu Town, also called Kerkyra. https://www.corfu-kerkyra.eu/en/fortresses-corfu.php At the top you can see a good portion of the Island, including the airport. The Barren Mountains of Albania, just across the water, blend into the sea and sky, giving the image of a watercolor painting. Prince Philip of England was born on Corfu. His home Mon Repos Palace will have to be on the list for my next visit there. We did take a little tour train through Corfu Town for 8 Euro, as the day met dusk. Life on Corfu is peaceful, but there is a nightlife. Partygoers making their way home after dancing in a club that night, could be seen at 4 am the next morning, as we rolled our suitcases across the quiet streets toward the car, for an early flight to Athens.
Rome is city to walk and explore each little neighborhood, experiencing what each has to offer. There is so much to see. There is the traditional Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, the Pantheon, the Roman ruins of the Forum, and the colosseum. https://parcocolosseo.it/area/foro-romano/ https://www.rome.info/ All of these are a must see. The Vatican is special even if you are not Catholic. The sharply dressed Swiss Guards stand proudly, guarding the grounds. St. Peter’s holds the tomb of Peter, the first Pope, and an Apostle of Jesus. You can attend a short mass in Italian daily, inside the church. www.vatican.com There is a schedule on their site for seeing the Pope. The Vatican museum holds many treasures, and you can walk into the Sistine Chapel, painted by Michelangelo. For 8 euro you can climb to the top of the dome, then get a fresh croissant on the way back down, in a café on the roof. For 10 euro, you can take the elevator.
Along the Tiber River, during a summer evening, restaurants set up shops to serve their delectable fare. There are carnival like stalls and bars as well. The Forum and colosseum are lit up at night, giving a different perspective. Light shows can be seen on the ruins telling stories of the past.
On the hill above Trastevere, known for its bohemian lifestyle, has one of the best views of the city. The botanical garden sits in the mist of the neighbor, and offers a relaxing stroll away from the crowds, for 8 euro. In Italy dinner is usually eaten late. The piazza’s and alleyways come alive with music, as you sit at one of the outdoor tables at one of the many restaurants.
The day before I left Rome last year, I learned to make a mosaic in a shop near the botanical gardens. The owner of the shop got me started, interjected instructions here and there, in Italian I don’t know. She made me a cup of tea, and brought me back a prosciutto and mozzarella sandwich from the store. I met an expat from England, who spends time in the shop, making beautiful mosaics. We had an aperol spritz, in a café afterward, and continued our lovely conversation.
Around the corner from our room in Prati this past summer was Castel Sant’Angelo. It was built for the Emperor Hadrian in 123-139 AD as a mausoleum. It has been used by the popes for various and often times vicarious reasons. It has also been used as a fortress. At the top is yet another great view of Rome, this time with the Vatican in site. http://castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it/
Driving in Rome is exhilarating, yet scary at the same time. When driving it, you quickly realize why it is one of the most dangerous cities to drive. The streets appear to be lacking lanes, signs are ignored, cars are parked in random directions, and the speed at which people drive is well above the limit.
Water fountains with cold drinking water are throughout this city, offering free, fresh and delicious water, to cool you off on a hot summer day.
Rome is one of my favorite cities. Every time I go, I experience something new, and revisit favorites.
The history of Pompeii is in-depth and does not begin with the Romans. It is a history worth exploring. Pompeii is situated next to Naples, just below Mt Vesuvius. The horrific day in 79AD when Vesuvius erupted leaving devastation, ended a prosperous life for many of those who lived there. For hundreds of years, those who bore the destruction were encased in ash over 80 feet deep, according to sources. A particular interesting account of the day is by Pliny the Younger, who lived during that time. http://www.pompeii.org.uk/s.php/tour-the-two-letters-written-by-pliny-the-elder-about-the-eruption-of-vesuvius-in-79-a-d-history-of-pompeii-en-238-s.htm
The ruins were unlike other Roman ruins I had seen because of the extent of preservation. Knowing the destruction, knowing people died in the middle of their daily activities, makes it more profound to see them. Did they know this ominous event was going to change or end their life? They were used to earthquakes. They knew the mountain above them was a volcano.
The tour can take you two hours or 6 depending on the routes you take through the UNESCO World Heritage Site. There is a place to get some food and drink inside the site. You can see Archeologists at work inside the site.
Mount Vesuvius, according to research, is 17,000 years old. It last erupted in 1944. With a view of the sea, Capri, Naples and the Amalfi Coast, we ascended as far as we could drive. Then we joined in with other cars parked along the side of the road. There was a man under a tent collecting money for a ticket to ride in a van for the next leg of the journey to the top. You can walk up the road, but it is not entirely safe. The van drops you off, you buy a ticket at the kiosk, then a short distance away at a little shop for refreshments and souvenirs, a lady takes your ticket, then you continue to walk up a gravel walk. All the while I kept thinking, I am walking up a volcano, that caused enormous, and unforgiving destruction. Below that destruction of ash and volcanic rock, was a city preserved, giving us insight to life during Roman times. The walk is not for those with heart and lung problems; they warn you of that. At the top you get a glimpse into the crater. Those more daring than me were getting a better view a little further up. I opted for buying a postcard at a little shop, with a stamp of Mount Vesuvius, proving I had made the climb. A cold drink was welcoming on the hot June day. The view below was worth the climb. Later, back in the car, we ate sandwiches I had prepared, with prosciutto and mozzarella, then we finished off the cannoli’s. We were on our way to Rome.
The Amalfi Coast has been on my list of places to visit for many years. This has been especially true after seeing “Under the Tuscan Sun,” by the writer Francis Mayes. Diane lane, playing Francis, falls for the dashing Marcello in the picturesque seaside town of Positano. Who wouldn’t want to go to the seaside town on the side of a cliff? A few hours south of Rome, just outside of Naples, is the town of Vico Equense; situated above the bright blue sea. Our host met us at the train station, so we could follow her to our two bedroom apartment; booked for two nights. Villa Bebe was a short ride up from the center of town. Our host showed us the place, then gave details on how to get back into town, as well as pointing us in the direction of a short cut, on foot, to the little grocery store we passed on the way, without having to get back on the winding road. She showed us a brochure on cruises to Capri, or the towns of Amalfi, and Positano. She even called Palo to make the arrangements for us. http://www.sorrentorelaxcharter.com She left us all set to be picked up the next morning to be taken to the marina. The next morning our boat operator waited with a cooler filled with water, soda, and prosciutto, with mozzarella, sandwiches. For the next 8 hours we glided across the blue water of the Mediterranean Sea, past the island of Capri, with Mt Vesuvius in view behind us. On the beaches of Amalfi and Positano, sun worshipers took up real estate along the strand of sand, while others rented blue and white umbrellas to shield them from the hot sun. We ate a snack of fresh seafood served in a coned cup with a drizzle of lemon glace. Lemons, the size of small footballs, were arranged on a cart outside of one of the many stores. We of course had to have gelato. The sandwiches brought for us were delicious. Our driver dropped us off in the two towns to explore, and then later patiently waited his turn to pick us up at the dock. Pictures shared will not fully covey just how beautiful the day was. Since we had a kitchen, I offered to cook. With the grocery store being just a short walk from the apartment, we walked down in search of the ingredients for dinner. Finding the ingredients you need for a meal is a great way to experience life like a local. The first night I made Chicken Parmesan, a green salad with homemade white French dressing, and naan bread with garlic butter. Homemade sangria was made with red wine, lemon soda (an ingredient learned in Lisbon), and limoncello to sweeten the concoction just a little more. The next night we had mixed seafood with a white wine butter sauce, served over linguini, a salad and cannoli’s. Food in Europe is amazing, whether bought in a restaurant or made with fresh ingredients from the store. In the evening of our second night, the bells of the small chapel around the corner from Villa Bebe, as well as the ones from the larger church up the hill, chimed as the parishioners walked by carrying candles, paying homage to Jesus, on the Feast of Corpus Christi. Red rose petals had been placed in the shaped of a heart on the pavement, earlier in the evening outside the chapel. A picture of Jesus perched just over the heart, inside an alcove in the wall, had a candle illuminating His face, as He appeared to look down upon the worshipers. A small alter, just inside the open chapel doors, was adorned with candles and more rose petals. The parade of people, to include our host, solemnly walked in silence, with the exception of the ringing bells; some of which disappeared into a home to have a dinner of their own with friends and family, to celebrate the Holy day. Our host gave a kiss to both my cheeks; wishing us a good evening and it was!
Orvieto is situated on volcanic ground in the providence of Umbria, in Italy, north of Rome. Its history goes back to the Etruscans’, before the Romans. At the top of the town sits a cathedral, Santa Marie Assunta, dating back to the 14th century. https://www.orvietoviva.com/en/ Cars are not permitted in town, but you can drive up, then park just outside of the closed streets. If you choose to arrive by train, the town can be reached by a funicular at the bottom. Last year I learned of the mother of a friend who fell in love with this region. She decided, while on vacation here, to come back to America and retire. I visited the town with my friend last year, as we made our way through Italy. As we walked through the medieval streets, I realized just why someone would want to retire to this hill town. This year I had the opportunity to meet this adventurous, lovely lady. Visit the town and see for yourself just how wonderful it is. Little family owned restaurants are scattered throughout, offering good food. Friends sit in the piazza sharing good conversation. Life stands still, when most of the time it seems to move too fast. We all could use a little of life standing still.